Review on Boulestin
September 2013 saw the much anticipated arrival of former Conran partner, Joel Kissin's restaurant called Boulestin in St James's, occupying the space held for many years by French restaurant L'Oranger. This new venture, Kissin's first London restaurant for some eleven years, pays homage to the legendary French chef, restaurateur and cookery book author Marcel Boulestin, whose eponymous restaurant ran from 1927 until its closure in 1994, when it was bought by Pizza Express.
With Cafe Marcel at the front welcoming diners into a casual relaxed environment, open all day for meals and light refreshments, the Boulestin restaurant is located towards the back of the long room. Set on black and white chequerboard tiling, tables and smart leather banquettes and green 30's inspired chairs are flooded with light from the glass domed roof. It is certainly a very elegant and stylish affair with antique mirrors and Jean-Emile Laboureur prints lining the walls.
The cooking is classically French to a T, with many of the recipes on the menu from Marcel Boulestin's pre-war cookery books including Oeuf en Gelée, Jambon Persillé, Cassoulet and Daube of Beef. When it comes to desserts there's roast pineapple paired with coconut ice cream or rhubarb jelly and compote.
The wine list is heavyweight in offerings from all the major French winegrowing regions, but there is ample choice from around the globe as well. During summer months diners can enjoy the tiny terraced courtyard in Pickering Place, noted for being the site of the last public duel fought with pistols in the middle of the 19th century.
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Restaurant Opening Times
Breakfast: 7.00 - 11.30am Mon-Fri (11.30am - 4.45pm Sat Brunch)
Lunch: 11.30am through until
Dinner: 10.30pm Mon-Fri (5.00 - 10.30pm Sat)
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card, American Express