Review on The Empress of India
The Empress of India at Victoria Park is the latest addition to the bestselling Tom and Ed Martin show and it has no truck with gastro pub clichés: instead, it sets out its stall as an all-day café-cum-restaurant, serving everything from breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea to full-blown evening meals with a 'Hope and Glory' British accent.
As you might expect, colonial India is the theme in this re-invented Victorian tavern, with features including hand-painted silk wallpaper depicting the days of the Raj, a huge Art Deco mirror rescued from a derelict cinema in Calcutta, a mosaic tiled floor and dark beechwood tables.
The kitchen takes a trip through time for dressed crab, game pie with Savoy cabbage and chestnuts, spotted dick with custard – and every dish is a memory-jerker. Occasionally there are detours – thyme and goats' cheese soufflé, fillet of Glenarm salmon with beetroot risotto and horseradish, pear tarte Tatin with Calvados ice cream, for example – and the rôtisserie comes into its own on Sundays, when whole roast birds are brought to the table on big wooden platters. This exercise in communal CIY (carve-it-yourself) makes the most of fashionable peasant-foodie theatricality. Real ales are a reminder of the venue's former life, the wine list is peppered with good stuff by the glass, and the kitchen even provides takeaways.
The Empress of India is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Hardens, AA Guide
Restaurant reviewed by Jenny McGregorRate this Restaurant
Gastro pub / British
Restaurant Opening Times
Breakfast: 10.00am - 12.00pm Sat-Sun Brunch
Lunch: 12.00 - 3.00pm (9.30pm Sun)
Dinner: 6.00 - 10.15pm
Accepted credit cards
Visa, Master Card, American Express