The intriguingly named Where The Light Gets In restaurant is located within the Hillgate Conservation Area of Stockport on Rostron Brow, once famous for its 19th-century alehouses of ill repute. Situated just opposite St Mary's Church, it's set on on the first floor of an old coffee warehouse, a large wooden beamed room with exposed brick walls and a cosy wood-burning stove, enjoying views across the rooftops towards Robinsons Brewery. An open kitchen is the focal point of the dining experience so diners can enjoy the theatre of the chefs preparing the food.

The chef behind this award-winning venture is Samuel Buckley, who has worked alongside a number of illustrious chefs during his culinary career including Simon Rogan, Gary Rhodes and Paul Kitching. There's no menu, instead guests are served a series of snacks and small plates depending on the very best of seasonal ingredients and produce the kitchen has sourced that day. Some of the dishes that have featured include oyster mousse with brassica, mini crab cakes, sour dough bread with chicken liver parfait, beetroot cannelloni, potato popadom with assorted sambals and a slice of slow roasted organic saddleback pork served with seasonal cherries and pig's blood sauce. On a sweet note you might see apricot clafoutis with an apricot stone cream or maybe sheep's milk set yoghurt, topped with a fennel and apple granita.

There's a first-class wine list highlighting natural and biodynamic vintners and service is both attentive and engaging.

Where The Light Gets In is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide

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British

Samuel Buckley

Lunch: From 12.30pm Sat
Dinner: 6.30 - 8.30pm Wed-Sat

Visa, Master Card

• Vegetarian menu
• 30 covers