Benares - Mayfair

Atul Kochhar made his name and earned a Michelin star at Tamarind, before upping sticks and opening his own place, Benares on Berkeley Square - Benares takes its name from the ancient holy city now known as Varanasi, and it has been fitted out in elegant, contemporary style with a candlelit entrance lobby, marble floors, a lily pond, hand-carved furniture - and not a hint of flock wallpaper anywhere.

Atul's approach to Indian cuisine is very much his own. Well-known favourites like rogan josh and chicken biryani share the billing with innovative ideas such as Benasari Chaampen (grilled marinated lamb chops with pomegranate, dates, green beans, Feta and watercress salad). Seafood is a major strength: tamarind-glazed turbot is served with sautéed mushrooms and spring onions, sea bass is accompanied by coconut kedgeree, and tandoori grey mullet might appear with a mango and coriander salad. Also check out the Goan-style lobster.

Vegetables include pani singhara (water chestnuts and French beans in lime and sour cream sauce) and it's worth ordering the fruity 'cherry and berry' naan bread. To finish, try the baked fig and yoghurt pudding if it's advertised. The elaborate wine list has been tailored to suit the food, with ample choice from around the globe.