The heartland of the English Shires still has its low-hedged fields and hunting mementoes, but times they are a-changing. New ideas, new foods and new restaurants are giving the county a very different identity. Even so, Leicestershire's most legendary specialities are still Stilton cheese and Melton Mowbray pork pies: upbeat pubs and restaurants are always keen to take them on board.

Leicester itself is a thriving multicultural city: the Indian cafés and restaurants on Belgrave Road are well worth exploring.