It's impossible to miss The Grosvenor's majestic gabled and turreted façade, in the heart of Chester's, traffic-free shopping centre. Erected in 1865 and owned by the Duke of Westminster's Estate, it is a grand hotel in every sense of the word. From the top-hatted commissionaire through to the book-lined lounge, the whole place is unmistakably like an ultra-posh gentlemen's club.

Following a refurb and a change of image, the prestigious Arkle Restaurant has been re-born as Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor, a showcase for the self-named chef's accomplished, complex and highly polished Michelin-starred food. There's no stinting on the truffles, foie gras and other pampering luxuries when it comes to the menu, which keeps a keen eye on the seasons. Modern inventions, plus a liberal helping of wit and wizardry show up at every turn – witness a starter billed as 'spices' (actually warm 'cod cure' with double mussels curry and soft egg ravioli) or '53oC beef' (piccatas of Galloway beef with intense mushroom, clotted cream, artichoke and truffle).

Surprises continue with desserts such as 'compression' (pressed banana caramel with iced salty peanut) or a dish cheekily headed 'lime squash' (warm vanilla and lime risotto with iced butternut squash and chocolate Parmesan). The stupendous 1000-bin wine list canters in leisurely fashion through the upper echelons of Burgundy and Bordeaux, but also gives the nod to legendary New World names.

The genteel Library has become the Arkle Bar & Lounge (handy for drinks, light lunches and afternoon tea), while a leisurely, Parisian atmosphere prevails in the more casual La Brasserie - where visitors can enjoy simpler French-inspired food.

Simon Radley at The Chester Grosvenor is also featured in: Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide, AA Guide

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Modern European

Simon Radley and Raymond Booker

Dinner: 6.30 - 9.00pm (last orders) Tue-Sat

Visa, Master Card, American Express

• Disabled access
• Private dining room
• Vegetarian menu
• 45 covers

Accomodation is available, (80 rooms)

Private parking is possible at a location nearby